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How do you explain that?" Nations that haven't just peered into the abyss, but lived in it, have a tight grasp on the price of failure. At his offices in Kigali, President Paul Kagame says: "Hutu fathers killed their own children because some of them resembled their wives, who were Tutsi. And it fosters a lasting mystery - an incomprehension over how man could behave so inhumanly to man. A few miles from Nyamata, a sign at a second massacre site reads: ÉGLISE NTARAMA: +/- 5,000 PEOPLE.Ī holocaust colors everything that follows, alters the essence of a nation. Come April 1994, around six out of every 10 people in Nyamata were killed, though again, no one is sure of the exact figure.
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It was where, in a series of practice massacres after 1990, that the Hutu militia, the Interahamwe, honed their calculations of the optimum rate of dispatch. The genocide museum in the capital Kigali concludes its description of 1994 with the words: "Rwanda was dead." As a Tutsi area, Nyamata was a crucible of the killing. Perhaps 2 million took part in the slaughter, this in a country of 8 million. It is estimated that Rwanda lost 800,000 people in 100 days. The Hutu slaughter of Tutsis and moderate Hutus in Rwanda between April and July 1994 was so quick and wholesale, it has proved impossible to find all the dead or separate their remains. The genocide museum in the capital Kigali concludes its description of 1994 with the words: "Rwanda was dead." "There's 50,000 people down there," says Ruxin, when I emerge. The walls are lined with shelves, floor to the ceiling, stacked with neat piles of bones and skulls. At the foot of the stairs is a narrow corridor. "Thirteen years later, they're still finding new bodies round here every day." We walk around to the front of the church where a raised white-tiled plinth is scattered with dead flowers and plastic wrap. Against a side wall, I find two new-looking closed coffins covered in cloth, a stack of 20 more, empty and expectant, and an open sack scattered with ribs, femurs and broken skulls. More blood, wide dry brown stains, covers the altar cloth. We step inside Nyamata church and my guide, Josh Ruxin, points out the wall where babies were smashed up against the brick. 13 years later the country is picking itself up and forging ahead Its been 13 years since the systematic slaughter of Tutsis and moderate Hutus took place in Rwanda.
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